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Chronicle of the tasting of the new Taste menu 1973 (Hotel Villa Cortes, Aaron, Tenerife)
To all these, It should be noted that the gastronomic space has been meticulously renovated, giving the dining room more spaciousness and enhancing the space with the lighting and elegance of the interior design and furniture. Let's go in, well, in this careful gustatory universe and calibrate with reading the attractiveness of the experience.
razor clam and oyster waterFat tuna/ Volcanic coral/Bivalves/Enzymatic sea bass/Marine cocktail
Pure subtlety converges in these starters. In Taste 1973 You have to pay attention to the sapid messages of these initial aperitifs and dissect the subtle or sharp nuances on the palate as the case may be.. They are evidence of an advanced cuisine – years of research behind it.- in which the tableware is also expressed, handmade ceramics of aboriginal inspiration, dreamy cutlery and glassware.
I must emphasize that every time I sit at this table I am able to see that everything that is experienced here grows one more degree – and always- in innovation and excellence compared to the previous tasting. It seems impossible but I can attest to it., one more time, after this visit to the restaurant with a Michelin star and a Repsol sun.
Gamba
The current version, after gradual and very thoughtful reviews by Schattenhofer and his Team, will be unrepeatable (until the next one appears). Savor the element of the Atlantic waters, that purity of the crustacean 'on the surface of the palate', It is as if we were drinking the sea with a spoon.
We move on to 'Moja pan, pic dad. The mimetic of that kind of almogrote resembling the tuber, along with the essential spreadable loaf, faith that achieves the magic of seeing us playing with such a common morsel and such an unexpected result in the mouth.
Carabineros marine rice. Little more would have to be added about this seafood specialty to what I have written on other occasions and consider that the clarity of the stew - and the technique that is intuited- It is reliable from the first spoonful, just like the iconic depth tablet (red pomfret) captured in the waters of El Hierro. This pass is – it would be said without grandiloquence that it is worth- an irreplaceable “edible heritage” in all aspects: flavor, texture, cooking point and presentation.
The majestic cherne appears on the table, that's the adjective!, marine genre already incontestable and that leads, after admiring such accurate preparation, in the salty end it will be tuna or palm tree meat, at the diner's choice. In either case, we are going to close the salty line with an outstanding.
Papaya and mango + Strawberry, tomato and roses + Little crazy things (chocolates)
If what is expected is a sweet finish that is in line with the magnitude of the salty line already mentioned, That sensation is fulfilled with the colorful 'sweet chords' that make up these expressive pastry creations..
Taste's pastry shop 1973 exudes balance and exquisite technical treatment that, definitely, It reaches the diner with delicious things and even leaves behind memories of aromas and flavors that were around in our homes.. Distinction also in sweets, therefore, until leading to the summit of the petit fours: a genuine revolution of chocolate in the form of colorful chocolates of which nothing more fits in this writing unless you try it in situ.
Notes that will not remain in the inkwell
From the first pass of the tasting menu, the series of information sheets with their corresponding illustrations arrive at the table, which could very well be part of a pictorial exhibition.. Example for shrimp, already mentioned, this is one of the paragraphs that I rescue.
“The Canary Islands are a crossroads of different cultures that are reflected in their gastronomy. The first inhabitants were Berbers from North Africa. They developed a culture and customs that we know through archaeological sites on the Islands., like el Cenobio de Valerón the Fallen Risk, in Gran Canaria, sacred place that tells us about the deep bond of the aborigines with the stars and the environment”.
About tuna, referring to La Gomera, You can read this other text that takes us to memories and unusual corners that deserve the care of this Taste 1973 from the Villa Cortés hotel.
“On Colombina Island, Time stops encapsulated in a canned food – 'caviar gomero' -, like the ones, in a time not so distant, They were used to contain the flavor of the sea. In the collective memory of the ‘rajiteros’ –La Rajita was the brand- The important salted canning plant created in 1904, “that met the hunger of many generations of Gomeros”.
“In La Graciosa – printed letter on another of the cards –, under the protection of the traditional hat and with baskets of fish at the head, Women actively participated in the livelihood of the island, in a barter economy, summarizes another of the informative sheets.
It is worth remembering, again, that Diego Laureano Schattenhofer has been surrounding himself for decades with scientists and researchers who, in a large multidisciplinary group, They are continually applying their knowledge – even mathematics or synapse-related knowledge.- to consolidate all these advances in theory and praxis. The goal is to enrich this cuisine day by day..
Historians, neuropsychologists, neurologist, marine biologists, scientists, philosopher, physiotherapists and chef make up this exceptional human group with Schattenhofer at the helm.
