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The Summer Dinner at the Chiringuito Tropical confirms the great moment of Gonzalo Calzadilla, in a tribute to Lanzarote full of technique and emotion
If one works how one lives, Let us conclude from the outset that the chef Gonzalo Calzadilla, currently in the kitchens of The Santiago Winery (Yaiza, Lanzarote) he is a happy guy. From there we understand the culinary tour offered at the Summer Night Dinners of the Chiringuito Tropical (White beach, Lanzarote) in which he combined freshness, technique and emotion, confirming the excellent creative moment it is going through.
The cook, one of the great ambassadors of the local product and the first to be awarded a Sol Repsol in Lanzarote, showed a jubilant and serene profile, enjoying each pass and transmitting to the diners - among them prominent restaurateurs on the island- his passion for the stove. The work of Calzadilla It is based on the precision of French cuisine and the love of the island pantry., a fusion that has given it its own and recognizable stamp.
A menu with sea, land and memory
The evening started with a delicate Old woman's splash, followed by an original Coriander green broth. The Sea salad from our coasts displayed iodized and vegetal textures, a nod to the sea that surrounds the island.
One of the most surprising dishes was the Onion and eel, in which the sweet and the smoky dialogued with great harmony. After, some rotundas Beans with brown They paid tribute to spoon cooking with a creative touch.
The thought orange rice brought color and energy before reaching one of the most talked about pieces of the night: he Rabbit bread in salmorejo, a kind of stuffed Neapolitan that combined Canarian tradition with French pastry techniques. Don't be too surprised by a future Relinda of rabbit in salmorejo. Pedro Nel (Etéreo, Santa Cruz of Tenerife) present at dinner with his wife, took good note of invention.
The last part of the menu came with the Royal suckling pig from Uga farm and a rabbit meat stew, dishes where meat power was balanced with elegance.
The sweet closing came from a fresh and evocative combination: watermelon, gofio and some cheese, very our flavors, nod to the book Traditional cuisine of Lanzarote, by Fefo Nieves - also present at the dinner- taken to the field of haute cuisine.
between stoves, art and enjoyment
Beyond gastronomic excellence, Calzadilla wanted, besides, pay tribute to one of the great cultural references of the island: Cesar Manrique. The “paintings” with which the evening ended, They invited the diner to design their own dessert. The respect and admiration that the chef professes for the person who marked the aesthetic identity of Lanzarote was thus underlined.. Coincidentally, one of his nieces was at one of the tables in the restaurant. Chiringuito Tropical.
The penultimate Midsummer Night's Dinner -the third to last because German Blanco will do double in the closing- It was much more than a succession of dishes. A portrait of the present appeared to us Gonzalo Calzadilla: a chef with firm roots, in love with his surroundings and mature enough to play, risk and thrill.
A brilliant experience, not only because of the technical level of the dishes, but because of the chef's attitude, who seemed close, smiling and, above all, enjoyment. A proposal that reinforces the role of Lanzarote on the national gastronomic map and reaffirms Calzadilla as one of the most solid and fresh voices of island cuisine.
