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Sitting down again at the Mencey hotel table to listen to Javier Moro is always an exercise in placidity
I have lost count of the meetings that Toño Armas and his team The Taste for Wine have deployed over the years. The Bramble (blanco, D. O. Bierzo), Elalba Rosado (rosado, D. O. Ribera del Duero), The Revelation (high end white, D. O. Bierzo). Examples of preparations that sealed two calls from great friends, Toño Armas y Javier Moro, and vice versa, in which hospitality professionals and journalists came to appreciate the carats of the leading winery and the update by its great ambassador.
There are dates that are covered in advance with complicity and also reunions that, simply, confirm the dizzying pace at which gastronomy advances and, but still, the wine universe.
Go back to sit at the hotel table Mencey, exquisitely prepared, to listen to Javier Moro, alma mater of Bodegas Emilio Moro, It is always an exercise in placidity. Javier affectionately baptizes Tenerife as his “second land” and this takes on a special nuance. After the welcoming words of Toño, The week couldn't have started in a better way.: with the glass in the hand and the gaze fixed on a horizon where tradition and the avant-garde give each other a definitive embrace.
The Bramble o Elalba Rosado They were already credentials at the pre-lunch cocktail held in the gardens of the iconic hotel on the Rambla. The next day another entertainment was prepared in the house itself. Toño, in which Javier himself would officiate on the embers to give excellent meat to the diners.
Moro he is just another Tenerife native. Let them tell him - and he later refreshed our memory with the costumes he has worn -: He even served as a jury for the queen of the festivities. That friendship of years gives him the "passport" to even analyze, like another canary and exceptional witness, our culinary and wine metamorphosis. «When it started to come, the restaurants were few, very basic, with mediocre glassware; It was the time of the rabbit, "the gofio and little else", he remembered with a nostalgic smile. Hoy, the panorama is radically opposite. The transition you have experienced Tenerife in cooking and wines it is, in your own words, "awesome".
A giant leap in quality. This is based on the mutual respect between the winery and the distributor and the dedication to the professionals in the kitchen by the creators of these renowned wines.. The words could flow, but even more so those wines in the extraordinary glassware: the commented The Revelation (high end white, D. O. Bierzo), which gave way to Emilio Moro Selected Harvest (tinto, D. O. Ribera del Duero); Malleolus (tinto, D. O. Ribera del Duero) y Malleolus de Valderramiro (high-end payment red, D. O. Ribera del Duero). You can imagine what a marvel!
A famous family that does not stop. Talk about Emilio Moro is talking about a lineage. The fourth generation already holds the reins of responsibility in a structure that, despite adding 140 professionals between their two wineries, It continues to be governed by the codes and the heart of a family. Professionalized to the extreme, Yeah, but with that human umbilical cord that defines his overwhelming personality.
Far from “leveraging” success, the slogan is clear: never stop. The winery is currently undergoing a profound process of aesthetic and conceptual renovation..
A change of image that will last until the year 2029, key date on which they will inaugurate dream facilities aimed at high-end wine tourism. Pure dynamism to demonstrate to the restaurant world and the final consumer that the brand remains more alive, selective and disruptive than ever.
All this after a complex but superb quality harvest., where the rigor in the vineyard has marked a before and after for the future of the house.
Pure camaraderie. Well-known chefs, sommeliers, restorers, businessmen and journalists were able to taste the harmonized proposal for lunch and pairings—with jokes included from the Moro about the generosity of the rations—. «We look like we're from Bilbao, but we are from Tenerife ».
of the pink, very exclusive cut (just 5.000 bottles), emphasis was placed on its elaboration based on an assembly 50 % between the fine tempranillo of Ribera del Duero and the subtle albillo variety. Its nine months of aging in an extremely elegant wood translate into a surprisingly fresh mouthfeel., with body, skin and a persistence that defies its faint color.
Then, The project that the family has cherished in El Bierzo since its first vintage burst onto the scene. 2016, The Bramble. Javier Moro recalled the beginnings in Leonese lands, when very few decidedly opted for the godello variety.
Hoy, avoiding the ephemeral label of "fashion", the grape shows to have a differentiating skeleton. After eleven years of learning and settling in a complex orography, the result is resounding.
Harmonies with splendid wine notes. The definitive sample that accompanied the main dishes was its top-of-the-range white: The Revelation. A wine of magnetic complexity, where passage through the bottle enriches and provides maturity.
When serving it, Its beautiful color anticipates a complex nose, full of butter notes, bakery, yeast and croissant, perfectly balanced with a mineral background and an impressive volume in the mouth.
Javier Moro He closed his speech by answering a couple of questions and to applause., giving the spotlight to the wines and the paragon of organization of The Taste for Wine and the Mencey.
It was not just another lunch, but the confirmation that wine with soul always finds its home on tables that know how to respect it.
