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The hand of Víctor Planas (Kensei, Tenerife, 1 SOL Repsol) rocks the kitchens of the renovated restaurant of the Hotel Fariones (*****)
In Lanzarote, It still costs a world for local customers to enter a hotel in tourist areas to enjoy one of the excellent restaurants they house.. And it is a bad habit that it would be advisable to start breaking more frequently.. Not in vain it is increasingly common to find solvent kitchens in establishments located in the pentaestrellato.
We have an example of what was pointed out in the first paragraph in the renewed Hotel Fariones. A recently released five-star hotel that hides Kaori among its mythical gardens and palm trees.
More than a Japanese restaurant
Kaori It is your Asian proposal that, in line with the nuevo hotel -the Fariones dates back to 1967-, changes its offer with the prestigious Victor Planas (Kensei, Tenerife, 1 SOL Repsol) and its seal Víctor Planas Asian Concept, forged from years of travel and experience, among which his more than a decade in the legendary Kabuki.
Maybe we should start by saying that Kaori -aroma in Japanese- It is much more than a proposal based on the cuisine of the country of the rising sun.. Plan, great connoisseur of the rich twists and nuances found in the heart of the polychrome Asian map, It makes the client jump from one country to another but without completely disconnecting from the Mediterranean concept and throwing kilometer zero product at the slightest opportunity.. The result could not be other than a fresh kitchen, fun and deep flavor.
The tasting menu
The journey it offers Kaori on your tasting menu, of eleven salty passes and two sweet ones, starts with the Oyster sunomono, presented in its pickle infused with hibiscus flower and citrus caviar. It is accompanied, in the pairing conducted impeccably by Well, the sommelier, with a very fine Colet Navazos Extra Brut DO Penedés.
His famous people follow him Royal Eggs -salmon tartare on rice chips, yuzu kosho hollandaise sauce and fried quail egg- that Planas matters of his Kensei and that is assimilated with a 'Kaido' shochu, sweet potato-based distillate, that helps cleanse the palate of the enveloping greasiness of the yolk.
The third pass features the fine cut of tuna loin with Thai coconut milk-based sauce.. In the language of Victor Planas Asian Concept: Akami con one day, codium, chili and tamari oil. In the glass shop it pairs with a Villa Wolf Pinot Gris (VDP Palatinate), same wine, the german, that serves to taste the Vietnamese roll with carabinero and spicy sauce of its essence. A crunchy bite in which rice paper wraps, besides, a bag of enoki, lettuce, tobiko roe and aromatic herbs, daikon and carrot.
Kensei return to Kaori with the Scallops with Japanese mushrooms. First interaction of the efficient wait staff with the diner. The bivalve mollusk is cooked on the table with toasted butter sauce, soja y yuzu kosho. We celebrate the pass with an aromatic sake (Sake Baby Heavensake).
The next pass, which are actually four in one, is a selection of Nigiri Sushi. appears the Lubina encebichada in one; he Uga salmon hunkan with ikura, in another; he Wagyu A5 con foie gras in the third, and is crowned with smoked bull -on table- with sour cream and caviar. A volcanic malvasia from Stratvs (DO Lanzarote) it bathes him wonderfully.
The penultimate salty pass consists of a Bogavante Tom Yum Ramen, the quintessential thai soup presented with lobster, squid, mussel, mushrooms and, naturally, noodles. The sommelier advises us, with success, a Pazo Señorans Collection (FROM Rías Baixas).
Before the sweet, there is time to finish the Asian trip with a Wagyu teriyaki with boletus and celeriac puree. A Pay (DO Ribera del Duero) allows you to enjoy the meat without removing a single nuance.
The sweet closure
The two sweet passes are resolved by Planas with the adaptation of two classics: the traditional japanese, Mini strawberry kakigori with cream and one Gyoza Strudel, in which German tradition is wrapped in that kind of Asian dumpling. A Hanayagu Junmai sake seals the menu.
back to the beginning, The reasons given should be enough to cross the entrance door to the Hotel Fariones and cross its attractive gardens to enjoy Kaori. In addition to the tasting menu (85 euros without pairing), The Asian offers a rich menu and a no less attractive proposal in wines, sparkling and distilled.
Kaori (Recommended Repsol). Fariones Hotel in Puerto del Carmen. Lanzarote Tuesday to Saturday, 19:30 a 22:00 h. +34 928 510 175
