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I enter the Hotel Lopesan Costa Meloneras and I am infected by the lively atmosphere in its central point. After assimilating the solemnity of the hall, I arrive at Bevir after the arch that leads to the access. Acronym for "Drink and Live", let it be recorded. A warm anteroom foreshadows the intimate atmosphere that will enhance the future of taste sensations of the Amurga menus., Ansite and Themisas (vegetarian).
Crossing the threshold of the imposing hall already predisposes the diner to admire the proposal of one of the most consistent culinary references in Canary Islands. I harbor expectations like that of the pigeon soup—a humble example of the sequence—that the chef Germán Ortega version based on his grandmother's recipe.
Casual introduction of the blueberry bites, flower cheese and a mellifluous figure of a sheep that are a credential of the commitment to the land. The room director, Diego Tornel, He has already poured the glass of champagne to toast the "Bevir instant"; his human and professional category is verifiable, that of the proclaimed best sommelier in Spain 2026 at the Madrid Gourmet Show Championship.
Interior design invites escape. Rogelio Tenorio, alma mater and ideologist of the restaurant, keep it up: «We are going to find a dedicated team and a select kitchen and room, "The most careful in every detail". It didn't take me long to confirm this statement..
Evident virtuosity. The chef Germán Ortega captures the essence of the island; not in vain, Nearby are the mountain range of dusk —name of the long menu— and Veneguera, ravine of Nublo Rural Park that appears in successive passes. I delight in the casts, shrimp case, sorrel and kohlrabi, denoting technical precision in a compendium of ingredients, a priori, not easy to crimp.
Tornel provides valuable clarifications about the wines. I stay in your hands! Choose the common thread of a singular white, Alejandra, of Vizcarra Wineries (DO Ribera del Duero), a splendid albillo. Cups and labels to harmonize with the clear flavor palette, like the pear, roe and cloves, which is pure delicatessen. In addition, I find the nuances of The Watercress (Gran Canaria) or of Château Margaux posterior 2019 (France), that served for specific pairings in the culinary story. I let myself be carried away by these hands.
A complete flash of complicity in the whole is the "roll" of black pork, fig and mojo kimchi, a nod from the head chef to the discovery that he reformulates in a cloud of cotton!! We roll and flatten until the juicy interior permeates the snowy wrapper.. Fun that breaks molds.
Roux and strong broths. In the turn of the "Hook" the bonanzas of the mackerel are woven together, smoked and dill sauce; amberjack and avocado; the sardine, besides the mussel, more a traditional broth. Ortega y Tenorio They consider that a good part of the solvency of bever is based on funds, in those roux and categorical reductions; so I purposely skip the linear development of the text to praise this same thing at the culmination of the suckling lamb, bimi and barley riso, dish that I classify as one of the apotheosis of the year.
The "tuna", caviar and marine broth" offers features that are as careful as they are differentiating from other tired proposals., and the baby shallot redecorates the usual records of the tuna; of the "sama", koji and squid" I confess - regardless of the praiseworthy cooking point - that emotion was unleashed by such seafood finesse.
Sweet cravings. I would give this sweet cuisine for another chronicle, in this south of Gran Canaria, maintains the very high level of saltiness. To «Where is the Ball?», the sour honey and prune flower and the chocolate-gofio-pumpkin are added to the petit fours that I "dispatched" with delight (rare thing in my case); The financier and lemon cream deserve special mention, topped off by a delicious port, a personal craving diligently attended to by Diego Tornel.
