|
Listen to this article now
Getting your Trinity Audio player ready...
|
Chef Víctor Suárez adds a wild partridge aged seven days to the Raíz menu and a dessert that recovers a recipe from his grandmother
The arrival of autumn brings new things to Haydee, the one-Michelin-starred restaurant he runs Victor Suarez at the Gran Tacande Hotel, in Costa Adeje (Tenerife). The chef has begun to renew his Raíz tasting menu, of 18 passports, with two preparations that explore different territories of their cuisine: a wild red partridge subjected to seven days of maturation and a dessert inspired by the roast milk that his grandmother prepared, from whom the restaurant takes its name.
The incorporation of partridge represents the introduction of a new meat in the final section of the gastronomic journey, where he will share the spotlight with the muddy goat, one of the characteristic elaborations of the house. Suárez thus introduces game cuisine in a proposal that maintains a close relationship with the recipes and products of the Canary Islands..
Seven days of maturation for a red partridge
The new development is based on a wild red partridge that matures for seven days, using the technique known as pheasanting, with the purpose of modifying its texture and developing its taste characteristics.
Once matured, the piece is boned and stuffed with a chicken farce, Spada, chalota, thyme and foie gras. Posteriorly, it rolls up, It is wrapped in crepineta and cooked at a low temperature to preserve its juiciness..
Finishing is done just before service, when the partridge is browned with clarified butter and accompanied by a canary saffron pickle, barralla—also known as glacial ficoid—and codium algae.
The combination introduces marine and vegetable ingredients in a game preparation with a marked classical inspiration., with the pickle as a link between the different elements of the dish.
His grandmother's roasted milk becomes 'Portrait’
The second addition has a more intimate component. Under the name of 'Portrait’, Víctor Suárez has created a dessert that recovers the roasted milk that his grandmother Haydée made, remembered by the chef for her skill in both cooking and baking.
The family recipe is now presented through a contemporary composition that incorporates a rice wafer printed with his grandmother's face.. The diner must tear that sheet to discover the preparation that remains hidden underneath..
The dessert thus establishes an explicit connection between family memory and the restaurant's current cuisine., a relationship that is also present in the chef's other preparations.
A menu of 18 passes that will continue to evolve
The two new items are part of the menu Root (175€), Haydée's longest food tour, composed of 18 passports. Suárez plans to incorporate new elaborations in the coming weeks and also expand the wine service options.
Meanwhile, Some of the dishes that have characterized the restaurant's offering this year will remain., among them La Gomero caviar, the liquid garlic omelette, fermented tomato with king crab, the moray with watercress and the chin wheat.
It will also continue in the sweet section of 'Garajonay’ (145€), another of the compositions that reflect the presence of Canarian references in Víctor Suárez's cuisine.
With these first additions, The restaurant begins the renewal of its proposal for the fall-winter season, combining new techniques and products with recipes closely related to the chef's personal history.
Haydee
Calle Unterhaching, S/N
(38670) Costa Adeje
Santa Cruz of Tenerife
