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The Congress of Cuisines and Volcanic Ecosystems puts Rosario's graceful octopus on the same level with the techniques of the best restaurant in the world and the Green Star of Les Cols
PHOTOS: Adriel Perdomo
The IV edition of Congress of Kitchens and Volcanic Ecosystems, Worldcanic, dedicated the second day to potentiality of volcanic flowers and herbs. And he chose the island of The Gracious for it. The presentations took place at the Sociocultural Center of Caleta de Sebo and the gastronomic part, aboard a catamaran. And that was where it erupted - to follow the theme of the event- the volcano that combines tradition and avant-garde.
On the same plane - or on the same cover- the octopus Rosario Alvarez Guadalupe, wearing the funny hat, naturally, the chickpeas Pedro Santana, with the help of the young chef Juan Manuel Campos, and the creative mind of Oriol Castro, that together with Eduard Xatruch y Mateu Casañas, have made of Enjoy Barcelona nothing less than the Best Restaurant in the World 2024. Y, with them, Fine Puigdevall y Martina Puigvert, figurehead of The Passes, Catalan restaurant with two Michelin Stars and one Green Star. The expedition, composed of chefs, scientists and specialized press, He savored the simple cuisine served on board and enjoyed, as is said in these cases, as it had been a long time since they had enjoyed.
Singularities and benefits of wild herbs
Kike Gallardo, biologist and chef co-responsible for the El Herbarium Edible project, Juan Carlos Godoy, technician at the Biosphere Reserve Office of the Cabildo de Lanzarote, y Montserrat Rodríguez Mesa, biologist from the Lanzarote Geopark were in charge of highlighting the exceptional characteristics of the volcanic soils, very fertile due to the abundant presence of minerals and a high presence of rofe and jable (fruits of volcanic activity precisely very abundant in Lanzarote) which reduce water evaporation and facilitate filtration. Plants grow in these soils that “sometimes we call weeds out of pure ignorance.”, warned Kike Gallardo. This biologist-chef encouraged cooks “to know them and use them in their dishes to achieve not only the use of natural resources but also greater awareness of the environment.”. Cazorla reinforced the message by listing the multiple varieties of the species, native and exotic, that can be found, For example, on the island of Lanzarote. This is the case of purslane, with high Omega content 3; the lechuguilla, very similar to thistle; the burning, whose pods taste like mustard with a spicy touch; the cruets, with its acidic and vinegary point; or the tunera, a truly multipurpose plant.
Cuisine with a volcanic conscience
This use of the natural resources offered by the volcanic areas that the day's round table has proclaimed is already being practiced by the chefs who participated in today's session.. It is the case of Fina Puigdevall and Martina Puigvert, mother and daughter in charge of the kitchens of Les Cols from Girona** (Olot), in the heart of the volcanic region of La Garrotxa. The passion of both for their territory also results in the utmost care and respect for the native varieties., like buckwheat, that grind in their own mill and serve in all their manifestations, from grain to false rice, in flour, in flower or in drink. Also the Jewess of Santa Pau, with which they prepare “a very volcanic dish that also includes pig's trotters, turnip and vegetable bacon”, or the native onion “sweeter because it is volcanic”, with which they make a delicate onion royale that they accompany with Olot roscón, breadcrumbs and licorice. Another important stop, elderflower, with which they enrich many dishes, and they even make a soft sparkling wine.
Fina Puigdevall and Martina Puigvert in their speech in La Graciosa[
Another champion of local and local products is the chef from La Mancha Miguel Ángel Expósito who performs in his restaurant Retama* (Real city) a proposal based on traditional recipes that shakes with passion and modernity. The chef now knows, and this is how he explained it to the attendees of the congress, that although old and extinct, Ciudad Real's volcanic soil offers numerous benefits to its crops, such as the uniqueness of wines and oils included in the recent Campo de Calatrava Denomination of Origin.. “They are a total of 16 municipalities spread over about 5,000m2 of area, towns of some 240 volcanic buildings, surrounded by lagoons and with extreme temperatures, what conditions its fauna and flora”. Iberian lynx land, and wild boar, golden eagle abounds, black stork, black vulture, red partridge, pato, and vegetable varieties such as black garlic, gladiolo grande, mauve geranium or yellow crocus.
Detail of Miguel Ángel Expósito's presentation
The scientific note of the day was provided by the geologist and official at the OASP Earthquake Planning and Protection Organization (Athens, Greece) Maria Manousaki. The Greek researcher, who has reviewed the 40 millions of years of Greek volcanic arc activity, He wanted to highlight during his speech the importance of prevention. “It is advisable to be prepared”, Manousaki warned while recounting that for this reason, and after that it will be detected in 2011 a large increase in seismic activity after an eruption in the Santorini area, A scientific committee was created in your country whose main function is “to monitor volcanoes in order to develop effective protection and action plans in case of emergency.”. Although now the volcano is in a dormant phase, “we can't sleep”, the geologist recalled.
